Vegetable oils and their virtues.

The composition of the oils will have an impact on their properties in cosmetics and therefore on their uses.

At BeautyMix, we offer seven vegetable oils (sweet almond, hazelnut, sesame, argan, jojoba, hemp and oily carrot macerate) whose properties will be highlighted in this article. The comedogenic index will also be indicated in the table, with a result between 0 and 5: 0 being non-comedogenic and 5 being very comedogenic. A comedogenic oil will tend to clog the pores of the skin and therefore promote the appearance of pimples or blackheads.


This article will help you better understand which oil is right for you.

What is an oil? How is it obtained?

Oils are fatty substances composed of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids (with omega 3,6,9). Vegetable oil is therefore, by definition, immiscible in water or in alcohol, that is to say that it cannot dissolve in it. Depending on the temperature at which the oil will be stored, it may end up in its oil or butter state. The latter corresponds to a solid state.


An oil can be obtained by different processes which will have an impact on its final quality.


  • The first technique is cold pressing: after sorting, the fruits and seeds will be cold pressed, that is to say at room temperature, in order to obtain a vegetable oil of excellent quality since the oil which result will be the purest possible and will contain all these essential nutrients.

  • The second technique is the mechanical press: the fruits will be crushed and slightly heated. The resulting oil will be pure and will preserve all its dietary qualities. This is the most common method.

For oleaginous fruits, a centrifugation will be necessary in order to properly separate the oil from the pulp.


  • Finally, the last process encountered is solvent extraction which is certainly profitable but which gives an oil of mediocre quality.

Alongside oils, there are oily macerates on the cosmetics market: they are obtained by macerating a plant in vegetable oil. Example of oily carrot macerate.

Odoo image and text block

What are vegetable oils made of?

  • Major constituent: fatty acids 

It is a fundamental molecule, a source of energy for humans. Fatty acids are mainly provided by food but can also be produced by our body. However, some fatty acids can only come from food since our body does not know how to synthesize them: these are the so-called "essential" fatty acids.

Among these fatty acids, we have saturated fatty acids, that is to say without double bonds, and unsaturated fatty acids, which have double bonds.

In principle, oils rich in saturated fatty acids will be in solid form at room temperature: this is the case with Shea Butter.


There are different types of unsaturated fatty acids:


  • Monounsaturated (a single double bond) otherwise known as omega 9

  • Polyunsaturated (several double bonds) otherwise known as omega 3 and 6.

In the omega 3 family, we will focus here on thelinolenic acid which is present in vegetable oils of cosmetic interest.

  • The other component of vegetable oils: unsaponifiables. 

These are components that will not be transformed into soap during a saponification reaction, that is to say a transformation of an oil into soap by adding soda.

These unsaponifiables, even if they are present in very small quantities (<1%), are nonetheless very effective and will be at the origin of the different properties of the oils:


  • Carotenoids: these are molecules responsible for the orange color of the oil and which give a “healthy glow” effect to the skin. They are powerful natural antioxidants, regenerating the skin and photo-protective.

  • Phytosterols, otherwise known as "vegetable cholesterol": they have a healing, restorative action and anti-inflammatory properties. They improve the skin's barrier function and microcirculation, slow down skin aging and protect against the action of UV rays.

  • Vitamin B: it protects and regenerates cells.

  • Vitamin C: this vitamin will accelerate the healing of the skin. It is found in rosehip or avocado oil.

  • Vitamin D: fairly well known since it is produced following sun exposure, it is useful for the proper functioning of the immune system.

  • Vitamin E (tocopherol): very antioxidant, it protects against cell aging and is anti-inflammatory. It is strongly found in thehemp oil and thenuts oil. It will therefore be useful for skin prone to imperfections. 

  • Vitamin K: it is useful in the blood clotting process.

  • Enzymes that will have an anti-aging action. They protect against skin aging induced in particular by free radicals. 

Odoo text and image block
Odoo image and text block

hazelnut oil


Fatty acid composition 

Very rich in w9 (omega 9), this oil strengthens the hydrolipidic film and has restorative and healing properties.

Composition "other"

  • Vitamin E: 40-50mg/100g: natural antioxidant

  • Sterol content: 75 - 195 mg/100g: healing and restorative action reducing inflammation.

  • Unsaponifiable content: 0.3 to 0.7%

Properties

  • Moisturizing, dry touch

  • reorganize 

  • Anti oxidant

  • Its high content of unsaturated fatty acid creates a relatively fluid texture. It penetrates quickly and does not leave a greasy feeling.

  • It is recommended for sensitive skin.

Color YELLOW
Preservation  Stable vegetable oil. Store away from heat and direct light.
Comedogenic index0

hemp oil


Fatty acid composition

The richness in linoleic acid makes it possible to create a protective barrier of the epidermis and to hydrate intensely.

It is one of the driest oils in cosmetics

Composition "other"

  • Vitamin E: 5 to 15 mg/100g: natural antioxidant

  • Omega 3: 13 to 20%: moisturizing power giving suppleness to the skin and anti-inflammatory soothing redness and skin irritation

  • Phenols ≈ 50 mg/kgCoQ10 ≥ 70 mg/kg: anti-wrinkle and fine lines, antioxidant protecting against oxidative stress and therefore premature aging

Properties

  • emollient

  • moisturizing

  • Restructuring, anti-erythema

  • Used for sensitive, mature skin

Color Dark green
Preservation
In the refrigerator
Comedogenic index0

 

Odoo text and image block
Odoo image and text block

sweet almond oil

Fatty acid composition

Very rich in w9 (= omega 9), this oil strengthens the hydrolipidic film and has restorative and healing properties.

Composition "other"

  • Vitamin E: 40-60mg/100g: natural antioxidant

  • Unsaponifiable content: 0.3-1.2%

  • Sterol content: 120->400mg/100g: healing, anti-inflammatory and restorative action

Properties

  • emollient

  • moisturizing

  • antioxidant

  • It is particularly recommended for babies

Color YELLOW
PreservationStable vegetable oil. Store away from heat and direct light.
Comedogenic index2

Argan oil


Fatty acid composition

Very rich in w9 (= omega 9), this oil strengthens the hydrolipidic film and has restorative and healing properties.

Composition "other"

  • Vitamin E: 2-10 mg/100g: natural antioxidant

  • Gamma-tocopherol content ≥ 350 mg/kg: anti-oxidant and anti-free radicals for the prevention of fine lines and wrinkles

  • Total sterol content ≥ 500 mg/100 g: (including 40% α-spinaterol and 40% schottenol): Reduce skin aging and anti-inflammatory action

Properties

  • moisturizing

  • Restructuring, regenerating

  • Anti oxidant, anti-aging

ColorYellow to brown
PreservationStable vegetable oil. Store away from heat and direct light.
Comedogenic index0
Odoo text and image block
Odoo image and text block

jojoba oil

 

Fatty acid composition
Composition "other"

  • Vitamin E: 2 – 4 mg/100 g natural antioxidant

  • Fatty acid esters ≥ 98% (waxes)

  • Of which: - ≈ 70% eicosenoic acid and - ≈ 15% docosenoic acid

Properties

  • Hydrating, nourishing

  • emollient

  • Restructuring, antioxidant

  • balancing 

  • It is the oil that comes closest to the natural sebum of the skin. It is thus very useful for acne-prone skin and will tend to rebalance this sebum production.

Color Light yellow to yellow
PreservationStable vegetable oil. Store away from heat and direct light.
Comedogenic index

0

sesame oil


Fatty acid composition
Composition "other"

  • Vitamin E: 5 - 10 mg/100g natural antioxidant

  • Sterol content: 500 - 650 mg/100 g healing, anti-inflammatory and restorative action

  • Sesamin content ≈ 600 mg/100 g

  • Sesamolin content ≈ 280 mg/100 g

  • Sesamin and sesamolin are two natural antioxidants that make sesame oil particularly suitable for anti-aging cosmetic treatments.

  • Stable to oxidation, it can be used in all formulations for its moisturizing and restructuring properties.

Properties

  • Moisturizing, anti-drying

  • Restructuring, regenerating

  • Nourishing

  • Anti-aging, antioxidant

  • Ideal for dryness and irritation

ColorYELLOW
PreservationStable vegetable oil. Store away from heat and direct light.
Comedogenic index1
Odoo text and image block
Odoo image and text block

Oily carrot macerate


Fatty acid composition
Composition "other"

  • Vitamin E ≈ 40mg / 100g natural antioxidant

  • Total carotenoid content ≥ 1000 mg/kg

  • Of which: - 30-35% α-carotene

  • - 65-70% β-carotene

  • Protection against external aggressions such as pollution, the sun and allows cell renewal

Properties

  • Nourishing, softening

  • Regenerating

  • Anti oxidant

  • Emollient

  • Protection against the aggressions of the sun, nourishes the skin and allows to obtain a tanned complexion

ColorOrange
PreservationStable vegetable oil. Store away from heat and direct light
Comedogenic index1
Pharmaceutical, food or household bicarbonate?
What are the differences ?